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	Care Sheet Housing Corn snakes can live in a number of enclosures depending on personal preference. They can be housed in large plastic storage boxes with air holes applied or they can live in purpose built cages called vivariums. These can be made from wood, glass or fiberglass. I prefer purpose built vivariums due to them being far more attractive. An enclosure with 4 square foot of floor area is sufficient for 1-2 adult corn snakes. Heating Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles which mean they can not control their own body temperature. Therefore, to maintain their temperature, they move back and forth between hotter and cooler areas. I would argue that the best form of heating is a heat mat. These are fairly inexpensive, safe (providing you use a thermostat and monitor the temperature) and provide the snake with important belly heat. This is placed under the vivarium (or container) and must only cover 1/3 of the floor area so that they have a gradient of heat – from one end of the enclosure to the other. It is vital that the snakes have access to cooler areas. Thermostats should always be used to prevent cages getting too hot – this is IMPORTANT. Temperatures should be 75-80 degrees F on the cooler side of the enclosure and 80-90 degrees F on the warmer side. Lighting Corn snakes do not need UV light or any other form of light. A lights only purpose is to make the cage look more appealing. Night time should be kept dark like it is in their natural environment. Substrate The floor covering can be newspaper, kitchen roll or any substrate that is marketed for reptiles. Pine shavings should NOT be used as it can become acidic when wet. Soiled substrate should be removed as soon as possible. Hiding Places These can be as simple as cardboard tubes or flower pots. As long as it is big enough for the snake to fit snuggly into so that its body is touching the edges – this makes the snake feel safe and secure. I would recommend putting two hides in the vivarium – one on the cool side and one on the warm side. Water Fresh water should be provided in a bowl or other container and changed daily. Some snakes like to bathe in the water bowl while others may only drink from it. Some keepers provide water in a margarin tub with a hole in the lid. The hole is normally only a little bit wider than the snake. The container should be big enough for the snake to fit in easily. The advantage of such containers is that the snakes can hide in the container and get a good soak. This often helps the snakes shed their skins. Feeding Corn snakes will feed on rodents of appropriate size for the whole of their life. Corn snakes 0-2 years usually eat around once a week and adult corn snakes will usually feed every 10 days. The rodent should be one and a half times the thickness of the fattest part of your snake. Live food should never be used as they could cause an injury to your snake. Frozen mice / rats can be bought cheaply from most reptile supply shops. There are also many frozen rodent suppliers on the Internet. Frozen rodents should be defrosted thoroughly naturally or in warm water before being offered to the snake. Cleaning The cage should be kept free of waste and thoroughly cleaned every month or two. There are a number of special cleaning solutions made for reptile enclosures on the market. Alternatively a small amount of fairy liquid can be mixed with water. Ensure you rinse it out thoroughly to remove any chemicals. Hygiene All reptiles carry bacteria in their digestive tract. Some carry bacteria that can be harmful to humans. It is best to ensure that you, and especially children, wash their hands after handling any reptile. Captive bred corn snakes present little, if any, risk of passing an infection on to healthy people. Shedding As a reptile grows, its old skin becomes too tight and a new skin awaits just below the old. As a snake gets ready to shed, its eyes will turn a milky blue and the body colour will start to dull. Once the eyes have cleared, the snake is ready to shed. This whole process usually runs over a week and then the skin should come off in one piece within minutes. If your snake has trouble shedding like this, soak the snake in tepid water to help remove any excess old skin. Handling Corns do not wrap snugly around your arm like pythons or kings do. They tend to pick a direction and go for it. Always support the body with two hands and give free rein to the head. If the head starts going somewhere you don't want it to go, gently guide it into another direction. Many snakes are nervous when introduced into a new situation with new people. Give them a couple of days to settle down before letting new people handle them. Click here to download this care sheet as a pdf
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Corn snakes can live in a number of enclosures depending on personal preference. They can be housed in large plastic storage boxes with air holes applied or they can live in purpose built cages called vivariums. These can be made from wood, glass or fiberglass. I prefer purpose built vivariums due to them being far more attractive. An enclosure with 4 square foot of floor area is sufficient for 1-2 adult corn snakes.

Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles which mean they can not control their own body temperature. Therefore, to maintain their temperature, they move back and forth between hotter and cooler areas. I would argue that the best form of heating is a heat mat. These are fairly inexpensive, safe (providing you use a thermostat and monitor the temperature) and provide the snake with important belly heat. This is placed under the vivarium (or container) and must only cover 1/3 of the floor area so that they have a gradient of heat – from one end of the enclosure to the other. It is vital that the snakes have access to cooler areas. Thermostats should always be used to prevent cages getting too hot – this is IMPORTANT.

Temperatures should be 75-80 degrees F on the cooler side of the enclosure and 80-90 degrees F on the warmer side.

Corn snakes do not need UV light or any other form of light. A lights only purpose is to make the cage look more appealing. Night time should be kept dark like it is in their natural environment.

The floor covering can be newspaper, kitchen roll or any substrate that is marketed for reptiles. Pine shavings should NOT be used as it can become acidic when wet. Soiled substrate should be removed as soon as possible.

These can be as simple as cardboard tubes or flower pots. As long as it is big enough for the snake to fit snuggly into so that its body is touching the edges – this makes the snake feel safe and secure. I would recommend putting two hides in the vivarium – one on the cool side and one on the warm side.

Fresh water should be provided in a bowl or other container and changed daily. Some snakes like to bathe in the water bowl while others may only drink from it. Some keepers provide water in a margarin tub with a hole in the lid. The hole is normally only a little bit wider than the snake. The container should be big enough for the snake to fit in easily. The advantage of such containers is that the snakes can hide in the container and get a good soak. This often helps the snakes shed their skins.

Corn snakes will feed on rodents of appropriate size for the whole of their life. Corn snakes 0-2 years usually eat around once a week and adult corn snakes will usually feed every 10 days. The rodent should be one and a half times the thickness of the fattest part of your snake. Live food should never be used as they could cause an injury to your snake. Frozen mice / rats can be bought cheaply from most reptile supply shops. There are also many frozen rodent suppliers on the Internet. Frozen rodents should be defrosted thoroughly naturally or in warm water before being offered to
the snake.

The cage should be kept free of waste and thoroughly cleaned every month or two. There are a number of special cleaning solutions made for reptile enclosures on the market. Alternatively a small amount of fairy liquid can be mixed with water. Ensure you rinse it out thoroughly to remove any chemicals.

All reptiles carry bacteria in their digestive tract. Some carry bacteria that can be harmful to humans. It is best to ensure that you, and especially children, wash their hands after handling any reptile. Captive bred corn snakes present little, if any, risk of passing an infection on to healthy people.

As a reptile grows, its old skin becomes too tight and a new skin awaits just below the old. As a snake gets ready to shed, its eyes will turn a milky blue and the body colour will start to dull. Once the eyes have cleared, the snake is ready to shed. This whole process usually runs over a week and then the skin should come off in one piece within minutes. If your snake has trouble shedding like this, soak the snake in tepid water to help remove any excess old skin.

Corns do not wrap snugly around your arm like pythons or kings do. They tend to pick a direction and go for it. Always support the body with two hands and give free rein to the head. If the head starts going somewhere you don't want it to go, gently guide it into another direction. Many snakes are nervous when introduced into a new situation with new people. Give them a couple of days to settle down before letting new people handle them.